Any Travels

Tuvalu consists of nine remote atolls in the great Pacific. The islands are low-lying coral formations, covered by coconut palms. The nearest island nations are Fiji to the South, Kiribati to the North, Samoa to the East and the Solomon Islands to the West. In 1995 Tuvalu's population was estimated at 9,900, one third of these living on Funafuti Atoll. Tuvaluans are ethnic Polynesians. With a land area of 30 square kilometres (12 square miles) Tuvalu is reckoned the world's 4th smallest nation. It is a realm of Queen Elizabeth II represented by a Governor General. The Parliament has only 12 members and the Prime Minister leads the party with the most number of seats.

Fongafale on Funafuti atoll is the capital of Tuvalu & the administration offices, a hotel, the jail and the hospital are all located there. The main languages are Tuvaluan (related to several languages in the region, especially Samoan) and English. Both languages are taught in schools.

The capital of Tuvalu, Funafuti is a tiny coral atoll; the width is only about 20 meters at the narrowest parts, and about 300-400 meters at the widest areas of the island. It has an estimated population of 4,000 and is a low key place.

Nanumea Atoll
The most northerly and most populous of the outer islands, Nanumea was occupied by US forces during WWII. Evidence of their presence exists in the wrecks of several US landing craft and a B-24 bomber. With the consent of the pastor, you may also climb the tall German Gothic-style tower for a wonderful view of the atoll. Nanumea is 475km (295mi) from Funafuti, and accessible only by sea.

Nukulaelae Atoll
Although two-thirds of the population were kidnapped by Peruvians in the middle of last century, the almost 400 people on the two dozen islets of Nukulaelae will welcome visitors. When there, you will see one of the only remaining pre-Christian worship sites in Tuvalu; a large altar stone standing in the bush. Nukulaelae is 120km (75mi) southeast of Funafuti. Private boat is the only practical way of getting there.

Culture

Tuvaluan culture is steeped in the Polynesian tradition, brought to the islands by Tongans and Samoans in the 14th century AD. Although most Tuvaluans these days are Christian, their adherence to traditional life is still an important and visible ingredient in daily life. Perhaps due to a combination of the Polynesian tradition of respect for family, community and environment and the islands' isolation from the modern world, Tuvalu was named the only nation in the world above reproach for human rights violations by a panel of observers in June 1998. Given the missionary tradition in the Pacific over the last two hundred years, it is surprising that the locals have emerged socially unscathed, but - unlike neighbouring American Samoa and Tonga - Western culture has arrived but not dominated the islands of Tuvalu.

Religion is a big part of Tuvaluan life and the Sunday service is the most important event in the week. Tuvalu has been described as 'very religious' by visitors, and strict Congregational Protestantism is evident in everything from church services to business dealings. As with other Christianised Pacific islands, this imported religion has been seamlessly interwoven into the complex code of traditional ethics and behaviour.

The culture is based on a complex set of social hierarchies, courtesies and customs that regulate all aspects of public and private life. Several important social conventions should be observed by foreigners, including the removal of shoes when entering churches, meeting places, manepa, and private houses, and dressing conservatively when off the beach. Despite being geographically isolated, the Tuvalu people have an open, respectful relationship with visitors. Tuvaluans may indicate to a foreigner that they wish to have a private conversation; it is considered rude to speak a language in front of anyone who doesn't understand it, so they are simply being courteous. Dancing, singing and music play a big part in Tuvaluan culture, especially during the popular 'feasts of fatele'. If you are lucky enough to visit a village during a traditional celebration, you will be made welcome, and encouraged to join in the festivities. If you're stuck on Funafuti, groups of entertainers are available to perform traditional dances for a modest fee.

The greatest attraction on Funafuti is the enormous and inviting Funafuti lagoon which is fourteen kilometres wide and about eighteen kilometres long and is excellent for swimming and snorkelling. There are also fortnightly discos at the Vaiaku Lagi Hotel in addition to traditional island dancing (fatele) for visitors. During World War 2, the United States military used it as a base to counter Japanese advances into the Gilbert Islands (Kiribati). The wrecks of several United States landing craft and B-24 bombers can still be seen on the island. The village church has a tall German-style tower. The local village is a ten minute walk to the north with a deep water wharf, a further ten minute walk north of the village. A short distance from the Vaiaku Lagi Hotel is the Women's Handicraft Centre, where locally crafted goods are for sale. Also worth visiting are the Philatelic Bureau, which provides stamps to collectors all over the world, and the University of the South Pacific Centre, which sells a range of books relating to Tuvalu and the surrounding region. Another point of interest is the spot which made Tuvalu the focus of international scientific attention more than 100 years ago, when an expedition was sent from London and Australia to drill far into the ground to prove Charles Darwin's theory on the formation of coral atolls.

There is a lot to do including observing the unique Tuvaluan culture and lifestyle. It is also possible to charter a boat or travel on the Council's catamaran to Funafala Islet three times a week for a stop of two hours. Funafala Islet at the south end of the Funafuti lagoon is the second most populated islet in the atoll. There are no shops whatsoever in Funafala, so visitors should take their own provisions. Traditional building with thatched roofs can be seen virtually everywhere on the beautiful islet.

Village, island and national governments are all grass-roots organizations. There are no political parties, despite the Western-based parliamentary model.