Any Travels

Iceland is Europe's westernmost country, the second largest island in the North-Atlantic ocean, a little over 3 hours flight from London, Paris, Amsterdam or Copenhagen. The first settlers came to Iceland from Norway and Ireland in the 9th century. Althingi, the world's oldest functioning legislative assembly, was established in the year 930 A. D. Iceland has a strong economy, low unemployment and low inflation. Per capita income is among the highest in the world.

In environmental terms, Iceland is unique. It is a large country (103,000 km, about the same surface area as Ireland or the State of Virginia), but is sparsely populated, with only 3 persons per km? living mostly along the coast. The interior of the country contains stunning contrasts. It is largely an arctic desert, punctuated with mountains, glaciers, volcanoes and waterfalls. Most of the vegetation and agricultural areas are in the lowlands close to the coastline.

Iceland has a relatively mild coastal climate. The average summer temperature in Reykjavik, the capital, is 10. 6°C/51°F in July, with average highs of 24. 3°C/76°F. The average winter temperature in Reykjavik is similar to New York City's, about 0°C/32°F in January (average highs are 9. 9°C/50°C). Usually the weather is very changeable.

The mild climate stems from the Gulf Stream and attendant warm ocean currents from the Gulf of Mexico. The weather is also affected by the East Greenland polar current curving south-eastwards round the north and east coasts. For two to three months in summer there is continuous daylight in Iceland, and early spring and late autumn enjoy long twilight. However, the days are very short in mid-winter.

Among the most distinctive features of Iceland are its glaciers, which cover over 11,922 km. (4,600 sq. mil. ) or 11. 5% of the total area of the country. During the past few decades, however, they have markedly thinned and retreated owing to a milder climate, and some of the smaller ones have all but vanished. By far the largest of the glacier caps is the Vatnajokull glacier in Southeast Iceland with an area of 8,400 km. (3,240 sq. mil. ), equal in size to all the glaciers on the European mainland put together. It reaches a thickness of 1 km (3,000 feet). One of its southern outlets, Breidamerkurjokull, descends to sea level.

Reykjavik, the capital of Iceland, is the country's largest city and the world's most northerly capital. The capital area includes seven municipalities in addition to Reykjavik itself, with a total population of about 170,000, of which over 108,000 live in Reykjavik. Reykjavik means "Smoky Bay", so named by the first settler in the 9th century because of steam rising from geothermal hot springs. This geothermal energy is utilized to provide economical, non-polluting heating to the city's buildings. Hence Reykjavik is one of the cleanest cities in the Western world. One of the country's best salmon rivers runs right through the city. Reykjavik offers historical sites, natural beauty, museums and galleries, public parks, excellent shopping, a wide range of leisure activities, hotels, restaurants and a remarkably lively artistic scene. There are many theatres and galleries and one can go to symphony concerts, the ballet or opera.

All branches of arts have flourished during the past century in Iceland. In the last few decades, the Icelandic film industry has had great success. Literature has a tradition going back to the middle ages. Novelist Mr. Halldor Laxness won the Nobel prize for literature in 1955. Painting started in earnest about 100 years ago and many Icelandic works are exhibited in galleries around the world. The National Theatre, the National Symphony Orchestra, the Icelandic Dance Company and the Opera House all contribute to a rich cultural life. In popular music, Bjork has had international success.

Icelandic, the national language, has changed very little from the original tongue spoken by the Norse settlers. Icelandic has two letters of its own, which were used in old English. "p" is pronounced as "th" in "thing" and "D" is pronounced as the "th" in "them". A large percentage of English words derive from Icelandic. English and Danish are widely spoken and understood in Iceland.

There are a number of excellent libraries in Iceland, the largest of which is the National and University Library of Iceland. The National Museum of Iceland is the chief body for preservation of antiquities in the country, and by far the oldest. Iceland has a number of other national and local museums.

Iceland's rugged terrain has forged a resilient and independent culture, fashioned over the years by the descendants of the farmers and warriors who fled the tyranny of medieval Scandinavia. Their flight to a new and empty country resulted in the building of sturdy settlements and farms, and the beginning of a rich literary tradition dominated by the sagas - fact-based accounts of struggles, battles, heroics, religion and occupations - which are considered the finest of all Western medieval works. The country has also thrown up some significant contributors to modern literature, with Halldor Laxness, Iceland's best known writer, awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1955. Traditional music - usually cowboy songs and tear-jerking lullabies - remains popular, while giddy international success has greeted the Sugarcubes' former lead singer, Bjork. Icelandic cusine is only for the truly adventurous, who will relish such can-you-believe it dishes as hrutspungur (ram's testicles pickled in whey and pressed into a cake) and hakarl (putrefied shark meat that has been buried for up to six months to ensure sufficient decomposition). You can also, if you're keen, eat puffin and seal.

Traditional Icelandic food is not as bad as it sounds: in fact several dishes are actually edible. The one glaring exception is hakarl, putrefied shark meat that has been buried for up to six months to ensure sufficient decomposition. Slightly more palatable is hrutspungur, ram's testicles pickled in whey and pressed into a cake, and svie, singed sheep head (complete with eyes) sawn in two, boiled and eaten either fresh or pickled. You could also try slatur, a mish-mash of sheep leftovers tied up in the stomach and cooked. Less bizarre foods include: har?fiskur (haddock); bleikja (char); lundi (puffin); and, if you haven't any objections to eating them, whale blubber, whale steaks and seal meat. A unique Icelandic treat is skyr, a yoghurt-like concoction made of pasteurised skim milk and bacteria culture. Coffee is a national institution, while beer, wine and spirits are available, though expensive. The traditional Icelandic brew is brennivin, a sort of schnapps made from potatoes and flavoured with caraway.