Any Travels

Guinea-Bissau is situated on the west coast of Africa and is bordered to the north by Senegal, the east and southeast by Guinea and west southwest by the Atlantic Ocean.

The country is swampy at the coast and low-lying inland, except in the northeast. There are no significant mountains. The most important rivers include the Cachew, Mansoa, Geba, Corubal, Rio Grande de Buba and Cacine. There are freshwater rivers inland, which are navigable for short distances.

Bissau
Bissau is a quiet capital for African standards. There is not a lot going on; while the streets are half empty, many people just sit on their porches and chat.The town has a cretian charm. There are many (run down) colonial style buildings with big veranda's. There are not many real sights, however.Bissau is a convenient point from which you can discover the rest of the country. The Bijagos islands can be reached by ferry and plane and hunting trips in the hinterland can also be arranged they used to be very popular with the Portuguese).

Bijagos islands
The Bijagos islands are really great. The archipelago consists of some ten islands, all of them with a tropical beauty to them. One of the main attractions is the presence of sea Hippo's.

The easiest way to get there is by plane. Before the war it was possible to book a hotel/flight arrangement for weekend in Bissau for about 100 US dollar. You will end up in Bubaque which is the best base for exploring the islands anyway.

Culture

The Bissau carnival is a feast of carved masks and coloured costumes, but during the rest of the year these are not prevalent on the mainland. The traditions are instead kept alive by the Bjango people on the islands. Seated statues of the spirit Iran, complete with jaunty top hat, witness agricultural and initiation rituals. Masks representing sharks, sawfish, hippos and bulls with real horns (the Dugn'be) are used. The hippo mask is so big, it has carved legs to hold it up.

Traditional dance and music are heavily influenced by neighbouring Senegal and Gambia. Women move frenetically to the sound of the harp-like kora and the xylophone-like balafon. Modern music mixes these roots with a Latin twist from its Portuguese heritage, and salsa is a big thing.

About 40% of Guinea-Bissau's people (mainly Fula and Mandinka) are Muslims; they are concentrated more upcountry than along the coast. Except for a few Christians in the towns, the rest follow traditional beliefs.

The official language of Guinea-Bissau is Portuguese but Crioulo, a hybrid of medieval Portuguese and local words, is more commonly spoken. French is understood in the more touristy areas.

Bissau has a number of smart seafood restaurants and smaller patisseries. Street food is harder to find, but elusive bread stalls do exist. Meat dishes in rural areas often contain monkey (macao) so check if you don't fancy chewing chimp (alternatives include goat, beef or vegetables). Imported soft drinks and beers abound and if you want to try local brew there's palm wine, caña (60%-proof rum) and caña de cajeu (cashew rum made from the fruit of the cashew nut): hangover cures essential.

Warning

Guinea-Bissau's security situation is delicate at the best of times. A bloodless coup in September 2003 only served as a reminder of its mutability. On the upside, overflow from the Casamance conflict in Senegal seems to have been stemmed. The message is: proceed with caution, keep abreast of latest developments, and avoid the northwest region.

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